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Arousing the Goddess:
Sex and Love in the Buddhist Ruins of India

By Tim Ward

 

Book review by Kilian Melloy | October 26, 2003

 

As a young man, journalist Tim Ward set out to explore the Buddhist faith and the ancient places, remote from what we call civilization, in Tibet and India. Along the way he met a beautiful German woman named Sabina, pined for her, charmed her, entered into a relationship with her, and came to find within her a semblance of the fearsome goddess, Kali. In more ways than one, the journey Ward recounts in his memoir Arousing the Goddess lives up to the title he has chosen, with both a wink and a solemn nod to the Hindu pantheon, for his book.

This likeable, highly readable work is part travelogue and part philosophical primer, laced with graphic moments of sex, love, and tantric energies so fierce as to threaten Ward and Sabina with electrocution. Despite frequent steamy passages, there is never a hint of raw salaciousness in the story. Ward is awfully decent, given his subject matter, in handling the issue of how forthright he ought to be versus how much to hold back so as not to embarrass his reader or himself. The result is a remarkable balance of the artful and the objective: Ward, following the Buddhist path, looks back on his youthful self to note passions as they rise and flare, unconcerned that he is discussing his own intimate experiences. He does not shy from other emotional states either: he recounts his struggles with jealously and pride, his episodes of sulking and rage, and his eventually emergence into clarity. It's an intense process, sometimes wildly funny and sometimes harrowing, but the book seldom loses its affable tone and never its integrity.

Much more disturbing than the sexual scenes Ward paints with a precisely judged mixture of heat and distance are the hallucinations he enters into, some of them so hair-raising one has to wonder at his state of mind at the time. In one fantasy, Ward conjures up a version of the story of Buddha's enlightenment that takes the form of a Broadway musical; a little later on, aboard a train, he alarms his fellow passengers when he becomes so completely embroiled in an imaginary conversation with absent acquaintances that he leaps from his seat and spills his coffee (still imagining, as he does so, that the hot wetness dashing onto his arm is human blood). But nothing can top the tantric experience Ward quite inadvertently falls into as he's making love to Sabina: sparks and jolts course through him, while a burning heat builds up and feels like it's about to burn him to ash from within. ("Was it frightening for you, too?" he inquires of Sabina, who is equally amazed.) Only when the young Westerner does some research and discovers writings that refer to these exact symptoms does Ward — and the reader — have the relief of knowing that the poor lad's not gone barmy.

At least, not yet: for as his relationship with Sabina ebbs and flows, his inner turmoil mounts: as Ward comes to see Sabina as an incarnation of the Hindu goddess Kali, both destroyer and nurturer of life, it proves to be an insight that only stirs things up all the more as the young Canadian struggles to make sense of the conflicts and nuances of the Hindu faith. "She was an artist at love," Ward writes, and this means that he is one more canvas for her: a relief, in a way, because our hapless narrator figures Sabina can take care of herself and will not requite any special handling: "Her pleasure seemed so esthetic," the author tells us, and we know it's Ward himself who will be speared by need. But if Sabina is an artist at love, she is also a terror to con men of all stripes and especially cabbies, and toward her erstwhile lover she runs hot and cold, all without explanation. The closest she comes to clarifying her waxing and waning moods is to say that "most men never have a clue" about women. Not that Ward hasn't been trying to make sense of her, or at least fit her into his world-view, confiding that, "She wasn't even nice to me sometimes, let alone divine, yet touching her had seemed so sacred." The poor boy is surely on a crash course, in every possible meaning of the phrase, taking in ideas at a bewildering pace while his own turbulent emotional climate threatens to shatter him on love's rocky shoals.

The experienced Indian sojourner will appreciate Ward's spot-on depictions of the multi-faceted and perplexing inundation of impressions and hassles that define India's cities, as well as his tranquil serenity passing through more rural regions. Once in a while, there's a surprising use of words like "coolie" and "peon" that make Ward sound as though he were one of the disdainful Brahmins that he evokes, especially the dour bureaucrats that pop up, with frequently hilarious results that Ward, their perpetual fall guy, takes in stride. Mostly, those who have been to India will recognize, with a grin and a shudder, the sense of chafed propriety that develops after too many encounters with beggars and rickshaw drivers — and the deeper sense of ego fading away that comes on in the wake of tattered Western sensibilities sent into retreat. For those who have not traveled through that paradoxical and enchanting land, this is as authentic a taste of India's — and Kali's — simultaneously proffered benedictions and terrors as anything can be, short of buying a ticket to New Delhi or Calcutta.

More universally, anyone who has ever known the intertwined ecstasies and wretchedness of love will find that Ward provides an even more inspired travelogue. It's easy to smile and to fret with White, so familiar does he make the territory within his own skin; the surprise lies in the destination to which he brings his reader: not quite enlightenment, but certainly a lighter, wiser, and more peaceful place.